Sunday, 9 November 2014

Blocking out eyebrows and Elizabethan make-up look

Elizabethan Make-up including blocking out eyebrows
Soap Method

You will need:

Toner
Water
Brushes
Soap
Cotton wool pads
Cotton Buds

Method:
-Wipe over the eyebrows with toner on cotton wool pads.

-Wet the soap and make a paste using an angled brush. Dove soap is good as it is very soft so can easily be made into a paste. If the client has sensitive skin then use unscented soap. Soap often looks better than pritt stick because it is not shiny.

-Ask your model to close their eyes just in case the soap runs.

-Brush through the hairs with in soap in the opposite direction to hair growth and then in the same direction as hair growth. This makes sure the soap gets down to and covers the roots of all the hairs.

-Use your finger to smooth down the eyebrow hair using a firm pressure.

-Use a cotton bud to remove any soap that has gone onto the skin.

-Then apply another layer of soap using the same technique and keep applying more layers. When using soap aim to smooth down the eyebrows enough so that the texture of the eyebrows is removed and not necessarily the colour. The colour can be fully blocked out using make-up.

-Let the soap dry and then use grease make-up on top, do not use water based make-up as it will dissolve the soap.

-This technique is used a lot in fashion shows as it is quick and easy to remove.


Pritt Stick Method:

You will need:

Pritt Stick
Spatula
Toner
Cotton wool pads
Cotton buds
Water
Translucent powder
Powder puff

Method:

-Wipe through the eyebrows using toner on a cotton wool pad.

-Remove the Pritt Stick from the tube using a spatula.

-Use the spatula to apply the Pritt Stick to the brow, pressing down firmly in the direction of hair growth.

-Apply quickly as the glue sets fast, this is also why you only apply in the direction of hair growth as the hairs would stick up if you applied it in the opposite direction.

-Use the spatula to remove any excess glue that has gone onto the skin before the glue dries. If the glue has dried use a cotton bud dipped in water to remove the excess glue.

-Use your finger to press down firmly onto the eyebrows.

-Apply more layers of glue using the same technique until the eyebrows are smooth and covered well.

-Powder the glue before it fully dries to achieve a good coverage, using a powder puff to apply as the powder will sop the glue sticking to the powder puff. The Pritt stick will look shinny if not enough powder is used.

-Then apply your chosen base, grease based foundation works better than water based as it does not dissolve the glue.


-This method is sometimes used in fashion and also by drag queens as it keeps the hair flat for a good amount of time.

Make-up after blocking out eyebrows

-For a modern day make-up look use the pink R21 Supracolor and white 070 Supracolor if needed to cover dark hair by pressing it on top of the eyebrow, do not rub in. Then apply your chosen base. This is often used for fantasy make-up so that there is more room on the forehead and the eyelid for painting on designs.

Elizabethan Make-up

You will need:

Supracolor white 070
Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation SB 01
Aquacolor white 070
Disposable mascara wands
Translucent powder
Powder puff or powder brush
Foundation brush
Buffer brush
Pink blusher-Kryolan T0 and R21
Matte pink lipstick

Method:

-For Elizabethan make-up use white 070 Supracolor to cover the eyebrows on top of the glue using a foundation brush.

-Then use Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation SB 01 on top of the white Supracolor and then apply the Skin Base Foundation to the rest of the face and any skin that will be on show. For example the ears, chest and neck if the hair is going to be up. To do this use a foundation brush and then a buffer brush to blend the product into the skin.

-Use the white Supracolor 070 or the white Aquacolor 070 on the eyelashes to make them white, apply using a disposable mascara wand.

-Then powder carefully using translucent powder and a powder puff or powder brush.

-Apply pink blusher to the apples of the cheeks, Kryolan TO and R21 blushers wok well.

-Finally apply pink blusher to the lips or a matte pink lip stick.



Contemporary Elizabethan Look:

I used soap to block out the eyebrows and then followed the same method for doing the Elizabethan style of make-up but used more contemporary shades for the lips, cheeks and eyeshadow. I did the colours stronger then they would have been in Elizabethan times to try and create a fashion style look that perhaps could be used on a catwalk or for a photography shoot.


This is from Gucci Fall 2012 catwalk. and is a modern take on the blocked out eyebrows, in this image her eyebrows appear to be bleached.
http://makeupforlife.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/bleached-brows-red-lips-gucci-fall-2012-runway.jpg

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