Blocking out eyebrows and Elizabethan make-up look

Elizabethan Make-up including blocking out eyebrows

Soap Method

You will need:

Toner

Water

Brushes

Soap

Cotton wool pads

Cotton Buds

Method:

-Wipe over the eyebrows with toner on cotton wool pads.

-Wet the soap and make a paste using an angled brush. Dove soap is good as it is very soft so can easily be made into a paste. If the client has sensitive skin then use unscented soap. Soap often looks better than pritt stick because it is not shiny.

-Ask your model to close their eyes just in case the soap runs.

-Brush through the hairs with in soap in the opposite direction to hair growth and then in the same direction as hair growth. This makes sure the soap gets down to and covers the roots of all the hairs.

-Use your finger to smooth down the eyebrow hair using a firm pressure.

-Use a cotton bud to remove any soap that has gone onto the skin.

-Then apply another layer of soap using the same technique and keep applying more layers. When using soap aim to smooth down the eyebrows enough so that the texture of the eyebrows is removed and not necessarily the colour. The colour can be fully blocked out using make-up.

-Let the soap dry and then use grease make-up on top, do not use water based make-up as it will dissolve the soap.

-This technique is used a lot in fashion shows as it is quick and easy to remove.

Pritt Stick Method:

You will need:

Pritt Stick

Spatula

Toner

Cotton wool pads

Cotton buds

Water

Translucent powder

Powder puff

Method:

-Wipe through the eyebrows using toner on a cotton wool pad.

-Remove the Pritt Stick from the tube using a spatula.

-Use the spatula to apply the Pritt Stick to the brow, pressing down firmly in the direction of hair growth.

-Apply quickly as the glue sets fast, this is also why you only apply in the direction of hair growth as the hairs would stick up if you applied it in the opposite direction.

-Use the spatula to remove any excess glue that has gone onto the skin before the glue dries. If the glue has dried use a cotton bud dipped in water to remove the excess glue.

-Use your finger to press down firmly onto the eyebrows.

-Apply more layers of glue using the same technique until the eyebrows are smooth and covered well.

-Powder the glue before it fully dries to achieve a good coverage, using a powder puff to apply as the powder will sop the glue sticking to the powder puff. The Pritt stick will look shinny if not enough powder is used.

-Then apply your chosen base, grease based foundation works better than water based as it does not dissolve the glue.

-This method is sometimes used in fashion and also by drag queens as it keeps the hair flat for a good amount of time.

Make-up after blocking out eyebrows

-For a modern day make-up look use the pink R21 Supracolor and white 070 Supracolor if needed to cover dark hair by pressing it on top of the eyebrow, do not rub in. Then apply your chosen base. This is often used for fantasy make-up so that there is more room on the forehead and the eyelid for painting on designs.

Elizabethan Make-up

You will need:

Supracolor white 070

Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation SB 01

Aquacolor white 070

Disposable mascara wands

Translucent powder

Powder puff or powder brush

Foundation brush

Buffer brush

Pink blusher-Kryolan T0 and R21

Matte pink lipstick

Method:

-For Elizabethan make-up use white 070 Supracolor to cover the eyebrows on top of the glue using a foundation brush.

-Then use Illamasqua Skin Base Foundation SB 01 on top of the white Supracolor and then apply the Skin Base Foundation to the rest of the face and any skin that will be on show. For example the ears, chest and neck if the hair is going to be up. To do this use a foundation brush and then a buffer brush to blend the product into the skin.

-Use the white Supracolor 070 or the white Aquacolor 070 on the eyelashes to make them white, apply using a disposable mascara wand.

-Then powder carefully using translucent powder and a powder puff or powder brush.

-Apply pink blusher to the apples of the cheeks, Kryolan TO and R21 blushers wok well.

-Finally apply pink blusher to the lips or a matte pink lip stick.

Contemporary Elizabethan Look:

I used soap to block out the eyebrows and then followed the same method for doing the Elizabethan style of make-up but used more contemporary shades for the lips, cheeks and eyeshadow. I did the colours stronger then they would have been in Elizabethan times to try and create a fashion style look that perhaps could be used on a catwalk or for a photography shoot.

This is from Gucci Fall 2012 catwalk. and is a modern take on the blocked out eyebrows, in this image her eyebrows appear to be bleached.
http://makeupforlife.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/bleached-brows-red-lips-gucci-fall-2012-runway.jpg

Face Charts For Contemporary Elizabethan Looks

Contemporary Elizabethan Ideas

I think this look is quite striking because of the bold lips and with only having black on the eyes. I have used the colours associated with Elizabethan make-up and covered the eyebrows to make it Elizabethan but I don’t think the look is as visually interesting as I would like it to be. I think more colours are needed to achieve this.

This look is a softer version of the previous design with more defined eyebrows and softer shading on the cheeks but I still think a wider range of colour is needed to make it look more modern.

I did this design to create a striking look by only using a few colours and used colours that were popular in Elizabethan times with a few modern twists for example the graphic shaping around the eyebrows. I do not think that this look is strong enough though and does not show the Elizabethan influences obviously enough.

In this look I used Elizabethan styles of make-up on the top halves of the eyebrows, eyes and lips and modern make-up on the bottom halves. I like this look but I would like the modern and Elizabethan to blend together more seamlessly in my final design.

In this look I did modern night make-up on most of the face with Elizabethan make-up blending from the bottom corner of the face to represent that the Elizabethan style is being taken over by the modern. However I think this look doesn’t mix the two eras together very well.

This design has Elizabethan make-up with modern day make-up on the eyes and lips to show the modern day look taking over the historical look and they almost blend together to represent how the modern has evolved from the past.

In this design I used modern make-up with Elizabethan make-up on the eye lashes, cheeks and inside of the lips to represent how the modern day make-up looks have evolved from the Elizabethan looks. I think this look is the most striking and uses the most colour so I am going to use this as my final design. The eye shadow is a modern day smokey eye and I have used black, grey and white so that I have a acromatic colour scheme on the eyes to link to the colour theory work we have done. Ive used modern day contouring on the cheeks, temples, chin and nose with an Elizabethan pink blusher. The lips have a modern day pink/red colour with a paler more Elizabethan colour blended into the centre. I have tried to do my look so that it represents how the past Elizabethan looks have evolved into modern day make-up.

Carina Buckley Analytical Review - The Danger Dress

Where Have All The Surfing Cowboys Gone

All photographs from: http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk154/fashiontoast/10-2013/sc1_zps70837974.jpg

The name of these series of photographs makes me assume that the theme in these photographs is that the model is looking for the so called surfing cowboys. This is reflected in a lot of the photographs as the model is looking away from the camera and into the distance as if she is scanning the horizon for what she is looking for.  In these images the model is stood away from the wall as if she is trying her best to find what she is looking for and looks as though she is about to go off searching away from where the surfing cowboys are suppose to be. However in the later photographs she is leaning on the wall looking down away from the space around her almost as if she has given up looking what she is searching for. This is reflected further in her facial expressions which change from looking quite determined to looking annoyed and almost upset. Also you can tell that the later photographs were taken later in the day due to the shadows created by the sun light so it looks as though she has gone in search of who she was looking for and then come back to her starting point after being unable to find who she was looking for. The dress in the image is referred to as the “Danger dress” in the photograph’s description which may be because of the split up the thigh making it daring as it is revealing a lot of skin. Alternatively it could refer to the colour of the dress as white is a very unforgiving colour and does not hide any marks or stains.

Drawing

We were taught an introduction to drawing and these are my attempts. I was quite pleased as I haven't drawn in a while and it's something I used to enjoy doing.

Eyes and Lips

Eyes and lips

Eyes

You will need:

Primer

Foundation

Concealer

Translucent powder

Eyeshadow

Eyeliner

Mascara

Disposable mascara wands

Eye make-up brushes e.g. small round brushes and an angled brush

Cotton buds

Cotton pads

Powder puff

Method:

-Use the primer, foundation and concealer as you would for a normal base following previous notes. Sometimes using a little more of the primer on top of the foundation on the eyelids gives a good make-up base. Then powder well if you are using powder eyeshadow or leave if you are using other types of eye make-up.

-Put lots of loose powder under the eyes upto the lash line to catch any eyeshadow that falls down, when you are more confident you can use a tissue under the eyes instead. If the client is wearing contact lenses use tissue.

-Use the lightest colour of eyeshadow first as it is easier to make the eyeshadow darker than it is to make it lighter and also you will be able to use the brush again for the darker eyeshadows.

-Stretch the skin using a cotton pad so that your fingers do not touch the skin and apply the eyeshadow using small strokes and work in using backwards and forwards strokes.

-Look in the mirror so you can see what the shadow looks like and ask the client to open and close their eyes accordingly so that you can see how the make-up looks with the eyes open and closed.

-Ask your client to tilt their head slightly if you need them to so that you achieve the best application possible.

-Then use darker colours to shade. Look at the shape of the eyes and think about how you can shade in order to enhance the eyes and make them look as good as possible.

-Start by shading at the outer corners of the eyes and then into the socket line or where ever the shading is required to achieve your chosen look.

-Use a cotton bud to remove the powder from under the eyes and to correct any mistakes that you may have made with the eyeshadow. Alternatively you can remove the powder using a powder puff.

-Use eyeliner or mix some eyeshadow into a paste with water and use an angled brush to apply the paste as eyeliner which you can blend to create a softer look.

-Stretch the skin whilst applying and make sure the eye remains closed until the eyeliner has dried.

-You can also use the eyeliner to create flicks at the sides of the eyes. You can do this free hand or by using something as a guide such as masking tape or a piece of plastic to draw against.

-Then use liner near the bottom lash line making sure you hold the skin under the eye down using a cotton pad.

-Fill in the eyebrows using eyeshadow and a small round brush or angled brush use small strokes and first fill in against the direction of hair growth and then in the direction of hair growth, smoothing the hair down as you do so, this is known as feathering.

-Then apply the mascara using disposable mascara wands. Ask your client to look slightly down so that you can apply the mascara to the top lashes making sure you wiggle the brush from side to side to get to the roots and then use sweeping strokes along the length of the lashes. You can curl the lashes as you do this by using the mascara wand to do so. Then ask the client to look up so you can apply mascara to the bottom lashes by pressing on the mascara near the roots and then using sweeping strokes to help curl the lashes under.

-Use a cotton bud to correct any mistakes.

Halloween/Day Of The Dead

For Halloween we were set the task of completing a Day of the Dead style of make-up using images that were provided for us. I chose this look as it used some contouring which we had been practising in previous classes and also I don't used a lot of dark colours especially blue usually so it was nice to try something different. I also included a look I completed on myself for Halloween. I had originally planned on something more extravagant but unfortunately didn't have a lot of time to get ready on the day, so the dead party girl look was the best I could do.

The Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion

The documentary looks at fashion photography in different decades and how techniques have changed due to advances in technology. It also explores how the ideals of beauty have changed and what different photographers aim to achieve in their work. The documentary gives you one individual’s insight into how fashion photography has changed over time and the images that he thinks represent these changes the most.

Then in the documentary the seven photographs are recreated to show that with a few small changes they look in keeping with modern day styles of photography. This shows how skilled and ground breaking the photographers were in their time as the compositions of their pieces still work and look good several decades later. The techniques that were used at the time the photographers were taken were used in many of the recreated photographs but just using more advanced equipment and I find it interesting that these older techniques can still be used to produces stunning photographs.

The documentary starts by looking at the work of Cecil Beaton a photographer and artist known for his work in films such as My Fair Lady and he is also renowned for being a preferred photographer for many royals including Queen Elizabeth II. The photo that was chosen was a piece for Vogue in 1934 which became known as the White Panama Hat. in the modern day photograph Sophie Ellis-Bexter was used as the model.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-yl6d4tsHunzwEGfezxjNGlWMwPFgs1_heX-lzDJ3Stnwl8s4FPliSLmSUwD_7OPnwRUtK2DfGKZebOzspC3AT5cXxSkX2W77K6AWYP1qi5y0bq_JbCwGejY9rG6aW8sTq7GMYau5F4/s320/rankin_doc_01.jpg